Jeans are one of the few garments almost everyone owns, yet the terms used to describe them can be confusing. Raw, rinsed, washed, selvedge, ounce weight: here is what each one means and how it affects the jeans you wear.
How denim is made
Denim is a sturdy cotton twill. The lengthwise threads (the warp) are dyed, traditionally with indigo, while the crosswise threads (the weft) are left undyed. That is why the outside of most jeans is blue and the inside is lighter.
Indigo sits on the surface of the yarn rather than soaking all the way through. As the fabric is worn and washed, the surface dye wears away and reveals the white core. This is what creates fading.
Raw, rinsed and washed
Raw denim
Raw (or dry) denim has not been washed after dyeing. It feels stiff at first and is very dark. Over months of wear it softens and develops fades that follow how you move, such as creases behind the knees and whiskers at the hips.
- Pros: personal fades, deep colour, long-lasting.
- Cons: stiff break-in period, may shrink if unsanforised, indigo can rub off onto light surfaces.
Rinsed denim
Rinsed denim has been washed once to remove excess dye and soften the fabric slightly. It keeps a deep, even colour but is more comfortable from day one and will not shrink much further.
Washed denim
Washed denim has been through additional processes such as stone washing or enzyme washing to create a lighter, softer, lived-in look straight away.
Understanding denim weight
Denim weight is usually given in ounces per square yard.
| Weight | Range | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Lightweight | Under 12 oz | Warm climates, summer |
| Midweight | 12–16 oz | Year-round everyday wear |
| Heavyweight | Over 16 oz | Cold weather, enthusiasts |
For most people, a 12–14 oz midweight denim offers the best balance of durability and comfort.
Choosing a fit
- Slim: close through the thigh and leg, a modern, streamlined look.
- Straight: the same width from knee to hem. Timeless and easy to style.
- Relaxed: more room through the seat and thigh, pairs well with oversized tops.
- Tapered: roomy at the top and narrowing towards the ankle.
Caring for your jeans
- Wash infrequently, only when they are actually dirty.
- Turn them inside out and wash in cold water.
- Hang to dry instead of tumble drying.
- For raw denim, wait as long as is comfortable before the first wash to get sharper fades.
There is no single best pair of jeans. There is only the right combination of fabric, wash and fit for how you live.
Which should you choose?
If you enjoy watching clothes evolve with you, try raw denim. If you want a sharp, dark pair that is comfortable now, go for rinsed. If you prefer a soft, relaxed look straight away, washed denim is the easiest choice. Whichever you pick, a well-made pair will only get better with time.
